Yemerrawanyea

Grave of Yemerrawanyea at St John the Baptist
Grave of Yemerrawanyea at St John the Baptist

As well as the buildings of interest in Shooters Hill, another intriguing entry in Adams’ and Pollard-Britten’s list of  “Buildings of Local Architectural or Historic Importance” was this one about the Grave of Yemerrawanyea in the Churchyard of St John the Baptist in Well Hall Road:

Yemerrawanyea was one of the two Australian Aborigine chiefs who came to England with Arthur Phillip, first Governor of New South wales, on his return in 1792. He was presented at court, but died later, in May, 1794, and was buried by the Well Hall Road wall to St John’s churchyard. (His fellow Chief, Benelong, returned to Australia and the promontory on which the Sydney Opera House stands, Benelong Point, is named after him).

How did  Yemerrawanyea come to be the first Aboriginal Australian to die in Britain and to be buried in Eltham in 1794, so soon after the “discovery” of Australia by Captain James Cook in 1770?

The story  is a sad one, told in detail by Jack Brook in “The forlorn hope: Bennelong and Yemmerrawannie go to England“. Yemerrawanyea and Benelong had become close to Admiral Arthur Phillip who was the first Governor of New South Wales, and founder of the settlement which became Sydney. They set off on the six month voyage to Britain with Admiral Phillip on Monday 10th December 1792, accompanied by “a couple of freed convicts, four kangaroos and several dingos“. Some saw the two men as samples to be examined in the same way as the flora and fauna of the new colony, though there were also thoughts that they could learn about British language and culture in order to aid relations between Australia’s indigenous peoples and the British.

The two were treated well during their time in London; they stayed in the fashionable west end, and were bought sets of new, warm clothes suitable for gentlemen. Tutors in English reading and writing were provided, and they had the services of a servant and a washerwoman to wash their clothes. A programme of educational visits to the sights of the city, such as St Pauls Cathedral, was arranged, along with entertainment such the theatre. However it seems they weren’t presented at court, although many historical accounts claim they were. There is no record of them meeting  King George III, the monarch at that time.

Yemerrawanyea’s illness seemed to start with a wound or infection of his leg. His medical treatment seems barbaric to us today: it included laxative potions, bleeding, blistering, purgatives and leeches. Because of his illness both men left the city in October 1793 to stay at the house of a Mr. Edward Kent in Eltham, though where exactly this was is not known. They were looked after by a steward of Lord Sydney, whose family seat was nearby at Frognal House – where the Queen Mary Hospital is now. During the six weeks they lived in Eltham Yemerrawanyea and Benelong visited Lord and Lady Sydney at Frognal and got to know them well. They returned to London in November, but Yemerrawanyea continued to receive treatment. They moved back to Eltham in May the next year, shortly before Yemerrawanyea died of pneumonia.

He was buried at the Church of St John the Bapist, as Jack Brook describes:

The vicar of the church, the Rev. JJ Shaw-Brooke, officiated at the funeral. Yemmerrawannie was buried as a Christian among the graves of the local residents of the Kentish village. Eltham Parish burial register records: `May 21. Yemmorravonyea Kebarrah, a Native of New South Wales, died May 18 1794, supposed to be aged 19 years, at the house of Mr Edward Kent’.

A sad end to Yemerrawanyea’s short life, 10,000 miles away from home in cold, dank England. Benelong lived in Eltham for a couple of months after the funeral, before starting on his long journey home.

St John the Baptist, Eltham
St John the Baptist, Eltham

Buildings of local interest

Edwardian Romanticism on Shooters Hill
Edwardian Romanticism on Shooters Hill

Whilst browsing in the local history section at Woolwich Library I came across a slim, typed, A4 document entitled “Buildings of Local Architectural or Historic Importance” by Councillor N.R. Adams and Borough Planning Officer C.H.J. Pollard-Britten, published in April 1983. It lists and describes interesting buildings across the borough, including quite a few here in Shooters Hill. I hadn’t come across many of the building described, and the descriptions sounded quite interesting, which seemed like a good excuse for a stroll round the local streets with my camera. Also the selection of buildings didn’t include quite a few that I thought would be essential members of such a list, so I arranged my route to pass some of them too.

I started on Shooters Hill itself.  The list included the Police Station, Christ Church and School, Samuel Phillips Memorial Shelter, and the Castlewood Day Hospital, but not the Water Tower or the Bull, though the nearby houses in the photograph at the top were there:

Nos 157 and 159

Built in 1907, a pair of semi-detached villas in the Dutch style, standing on the previous site of “The Bull”. 2-storey in red brick with blue brick diaper work in the two main front gables. Slate roof and English Tudor style chimneys. Example of Edwardian romanticism uncommon in this area.

“Uncommon Edwardian Romanticism” – a good start. I headed round the corner into Shrewsbury Lane, where several of the document’s entries are remnants from Victorian times when the area was dominated by large houses. Two walls from that era are described. The one between number 55 and Occupation Lane marked the boundary of Haddon Lodge, which appears on the 1866 OS map and according to Bagnold was built by William Jackson Esq. in about 1860. Then there’s the wall next to number 61, which was part of the enclosure of  Park Villa and West Villa, former 19th century buildings which were demolished in the 1960s.

On the other side of  the lane is Elmhurst Cottage, which is described as:

No. 40

‘Elmhurst Cottage’

Small single storey timber building – originally appeared on Ordnance Survey map of 1846, but rebuilt in previous style in 1976. Lidgebird, brickmaker for the Royal Arsenal, lived here. Built of wood with slate roof and sash windows. Decorative trellis work to sides of windows and projecting porch.

Elmhurst Cottage
Elmhurst Cottage

The cottage is all that remains of a much larger residence in spacious grounds called Elmhurst, which Bagnold describes as ” a substantial residence built by the Dallins in 1859 and occupied by the family up until 1868 or later.” The Lidgbirds and Dallins were significant families in the history of Shooters Hill. John Lidgbird, who was made High Sheriff of Kent in 1741, was a major landowner in the area. The eagles in his coat-of-arms are one possible origin of the name Eaglesfield. In the nineteenth century the Rev Thomas Dallin was the first vicar of Christ Church. He was married to Mary Lidgbird, a descendant of John. I guess that’s where Dallin Road got its name from.

The only other houses mentioned in Shrewsbury Lane are 48 and 65. The fire station and Furze Lodge, the former gas decontamination centre, aren’t in the list. I notice the conversion of Furze Lodge is now complete and ready for people to move in and enjoy the views.

Furze Lodge - former Gas Decontamination Centre
Furze Lodge – former Gas Decontamination Centre

I continued down the hill into Plum Lane where the document describes a terrace of pretty cottages:

Nos. 10 – 32 (even)

Mid Victorian period – two terraces, split by Vambery Road, of small 2-storey yellow stock houses with slated roofs. Stone dressings to front doors and ground floor windows. Some houses have been pebbledashed. Terrace north of Vambery Road bear inscription, ‘Shrewsbury Villas – built 1858’

Shrewsbury Villas - built 1858
Shrewsbury Villas – built 1858

I decided to head back via Genesta Road to take a look at another building that isn’t in the list – the United Kingdom’s only modernist terrace. On the way I expected to see the only wall post box left in SE18: a “Victorian letter box in wall adjacent to No. 90 Plum Lane”.  I was disappointed to find just a blank wall, which must mean that there are now no wall post boxes in SE18.

Russia-born architect Berthold Lubetkin‘s terrace at 85-91 Genesta Road is Grade II* listed, and is described on British Listed Buildings as follows:

Terrace of four houses. 1933-4 by Berthold Lubetkin, in conjunction with A V Pilichowski who secured the commission from C J Pell and Co. developers. George West Ltd. builders. Monolithic reinforced concrete construction, painted, with flat roof. Narrow frontage houses, 7.7 metres deep, on three floors, the ground floor lower than the road owing to the extremely steep site. Houses arranged in mirrored pairs. Ground floor with entrance halls, loggia rooms and garages, first floors with reception rooms and kitchens, the second floors with three bedrooms and bathrooms.
Entrances set back behind single pilotis to each house, which support the projecting upper storeys, and given further enclosure by curved projection to side. Most houses retain their original Crittall metal doors, and No. 91 has original bell. Garages, set further back, retain original doors. All windows to front are the original Crittall metal frames with side-opening casements, as are those to the rear except where noted. First floor with continuous horizontal windows across facade, each of ten vertical lights with some opening casements, set in projecting concrete frame – a very early use of such a feature. The second floor has a similar five-light window, with to side, doors on to balcony with cyma-curved concrete front and steel sides. This is a very distinctive and classic Lubetkin design, perhaps derived from the Bauhaus but evolved by him into one of the most characterful design features of the 1930s. Rear elevation simpler, though with similar Crittall windows surviving to Nos. 87 and 91 and to the upper floors of No. 85. The small bathroom and toilet windows to No. 89 survive, but the others have been altered. Ground floors originally with open loggias, now infilled with wood or glass but retaining their ‘garden room’ characteristic. The interiors survive remarkably well in all the houses, though No. 91 is the most complete.

Entrance halls with magnesium chloride floors, save that to No. 87 which has woodblock floor. Curved cloakroom in projection to side of front doors. Circular staircases with cupboards underneath, their timber newels scooped out on ground and first floor levels to make semi-circular features, admitting more light and space. A series of curves completes this newel wall at the top of the houses. First floor landing with cork floors. Reception rooms in two halves with square archway between, devised to give a sense of division without loss of space and light, and with two doors opening on to landing to enhance circulation space. On the second floor, No. 91 retains its original bathroom fixtures, with tiled walls and floors. The bedrooms have composition floors. Ladders secured over the stairwell give access via rooflight to flat roofs.
The front and side retaining walls with planting boxes are an important part of the composition, as are surviving gates and gatepiers. The rear gardens incorporate some walling and edgings in their steeply sloping sites.
Lubetkin was an emigre architect from the Soviet Union who settled in Britain in late 1931. This is his first building here, yet it is a confident and mature work which reveals many of the design details which were to appear in his later and better-known public commissions. The houses are the only completed terrace in England built in the modern idiom during the 1930s, and they are remarkably well preserved. Lubetkin himself designed only two other private houses, both in Whipsnade and including one for himself.

One of the terrace was recently up for sale, and there are currently some great pictures of the interior and a floor plan on The Modern House web site.

I headed back via Eglinton Hill. The first two houses in Adams’ and Pollard-Britten’s list had changed unfortunately: the red brick front and yellow stock brick return at number 29 had been pebbledashed and the carriage doors at number 35 are now a window. The houses further up were interesting though, and I’ll write about them in a future post.

I took quite a few more pictures on my stroll around Shooters Hill buildings of interest,  which I’ve uploaded to a flickr set of Shooters Hill Interesting Buildings. I’m planning future photographic perambulations to visit the other buildings of architectural and historic interest in the area, which I’ll add to the set. Suggestions for buildings that should be included would be welcome.

91 Genesta Road - part of the United Kingdom's only modernist terrace
91 Genesta Road – part of the United Kingdom’s only modernist terrace

Pet Cemetery

Headstone in the pet cemetery, Hornfair Park
Headstone in the pet cemetery, Hornfair Park

I didn’t know that there was an old pet cemetery just off Shooters Hill Road near the Charlton Lido until I received an e-mail from Kathy at the Friends of Shrewsbury Park about the Pet Cemetery’s friends group. The friends group are looking for volunteers to help with a clean-up day on Sunday April 21st from 11am-4pm.

It’s not surprising I’d missed it because the cemetery is tucked away near Hornfair Park, but not accessible from the park. Although the walled and fenced area needs a little bit of care and attention it’s a calm, secluded place, and studded with a number of poignant, small pet gravestones from the 1930s and 40s. Several of the gravestones commemorate the pets as  “Our Pal”, or “My Chum” and they all include their names – Ikkety Man, Flossie, Rags, Sadie, Kiki, Queenie, Barney – but not necessarily what kind of animal it was.  Flossie’s seemed especially sad, with its epitaph:

From six weeks old we had her

But age crept on with time

A dear old girl that we loved so well

She will always be in our minds

Flossie was about 16 years old when she died in June 1939.

Another gravestone with letters eroded by the years,  about a dog called Simba, recorded the animal’s 12 years of military service, with the 93rd, at home and in Jamaica, China and India. I wonder if the 93rd is a reference to the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders?

Pet Cemetery
Pet Cemetery

Kathy’s e-mail included the following information from the friends:

A community group has been set up, as a non-profit organisation, to enable the Pet Cemetery to be restored and maintained for all to enjoy.

Approximately 80 years ago, kennels were organised by the Blue Cross who ensured that the pets and working dogs of service men and women would have a safe haven while their owners were on active duty during the WWII.  The kennels were also a place where injured animals were taken – especially those dogs that were used on the Front Line.  There was also a cemetery here for animals that either did not survive, or simply died of old age.  This place enabled service men and women to give a well-deserved resting place for their beloved pets.

There are over 240 gravestones, and some of the dogs buried here received medals for their service during WWII.  The site is therefore of historical importance.

The cemetery is little known about, and less loved than it was back then, and this is why the Friends of the Pet Cemetery Group (FOPC) hope to improve the site, and make it a special place.

The group will also promote the area as a visitor attraction, encourage links with community groups, schools, colleges and other organisations to ultimately achieve a memorial garden for working animals and local pets to be remembered.

We will have a clean-up day on Sunday April 21st from 11am-4pm, to which all are welcome. The cemetery cannot be accessed from the park itself, but via the entrance on Shooters Hill, (just by the footbridge, and opposite ‘The Fox Under the Hill’).

We are also in the process of arranging an Open Day, and more details about this will be given in a newsletter to be produced later.

Contact details for the group:  j-patrick@ntlworld.com (Secretary); Toni Hale (Chairperson) 07786 895 799.  If you would like to become a member (subscription £2), please contact either of the above committee members.

We are also on Facebook – ‘Pet Cemetery Group Charlton’, and Twitter: @FOPC Group.

Headstone in the pet cemetery, Hornfair Park
Headstone in the pet cemetery, Hornfair Park

The Sketch of Jackwood

Jackwood House from The Sketch
Jackwood, Shooters Hill, the home of Nat C. Goodwin and his wife

Many thanks to reader Mike Smith for sending me a copy of an article entitled “The Splendour of the Modern Actor” from a weekly newspaper called The Sketch dated August 2nd 1899. The article was about the American actor Nat C. Goodwin and his wife, the actress Maxine Elliot, who lived in Jackwood at the end of the 19th Century and who I mentioned in a previous post about Jackwood. It includes a number of fascinating photographs of Jackwood as it was in 1899. The appearance of the house, shown in the photograph above, is the same as the Old English style mansion that was put up for sale in 1874.

Maxine Elliot and her sister Gertrude in their carriage in front of Jackwood House
Maxine Elliot and her sister Gertrude in their carriage in front of Jackwood House

The author of the article describes their journey by horse drawn buggy from Blackheath station up to the mansion in the woods of Shooters Hill.  The description of the interior of the house matches that in the sales literature:

The interior  is entirely lined with polished pitch-pine, and the great staircase with its open gallery is a triumph of workmanship, while the overmantels are of dark wood handsomely carved, many displaying the Arms of the first tenant, Sir William Plasted Wilde, whose crest and motto decorate the richly moulded ceilings, especially that in the drawing room, which is adorned with heavy pendants.

I think the Sir William Plasted Wilde mentioned should be really be Sir James Plaisted Wilde who became Lord Penzance, of the Mysterious P atop the gate leading into the walled garden in Jack Wood. Some of the details of the drawing room can just about be made out in the photograph below.

The drawing room at Jackwood: Miss Maxine Elliot and Mr. N.C. Goodwin
The drawing room at Jackwood: Miss Maxine Elliot and Mr. N.C. Goodwin

Much of the Sketch article is about the lifestyle of the tenants of Jackwood, and the way in which they had decorated the house, for example with Nat’s collection of native American artefacts which included the feathered head-dress of Indian chief Big Mouth and a selection of leather belts, one of which was fringed with a number of human scalps. There is a brief mention of the gardens:

But your hostess is insistent on showing you the grounds before luncheon, for the charming pleasances and the terraced rose gardens, enclosed on one side by a dwarf wall adorned by rounded Kentish gables and copied from Haddon Hall, are amongst the sights at Jackwood. These pleasant walks, paved in places with smooth red tiling, overlook the lawn tennis ground, at one end of which a mighty oak gives agreeable shade to onlookers, while further down the hillside the thistle-grown slopes are the playground of wild rabbits, which emerge from the thick underwood around in the cool of the evening. Through a vista in the forest, a favourite resort of the family, you may watch on Thursday nights Brock’s fireworks at the Crystal Palace far away in the distance.

Parts of the terrace shown in the photograph below are amongst the few remnants of Jackwood that survive today.

A fascinating glimpse into “society” life in Shooters Hill at the end of the nineteenth century. Thanks again Mike.

Maxine Elliot and her sister Gertrude on the terrace at Jackwood
Miss Maxine Elliot and her sister Gertrude on the terrace at Jackwood
From photographs by Thomas, Cheapside

Woolwich Police Station

The entrance to Woolwich Police Station
The entrance to Woolwich Police Station

What has Woolwich done to deserve this? The Victorian post office has been demolished and its architectural adornments put into storage,  the 124 year old Woolwich Free Ferry is threatened with closure, as is the 126 year old Woolwich Fire Station and now there is a proposal to close Woolwich Police Station. The police station in Market Street is a comparative youngster; it was built in 1909 – 10, just 103 years ago, though there has been a police station in Woolwich since 1840 according to English Heritage’s amazing book about Woolwich.

The Mayor’s Office of Policing and Crime (MOPAC) have proposed closure of 65 police stations across London in their draft Estate Strategy 2013-2016 which has just been issued for consultation. This includes three out of the five Greenwich police stations, as shown on the map snippet below taken from the Guardian’s datablog: Woolwich, Thamesmead and Greenwich police stations would close leaving just Plumstead and Eltham in the borough. Plumstead would be the only 24 hour station in Greenwich, so I assume that means it will be the borough’s “Grip and Pace” centre. The what centre? In the Metropolitan Police’s own words:

The new model will also see the introduction of war room-style ‘Grip and Pace’ centres where senior officers will have daily conferences with key staff, armed with the latest intelligence and data to coordinate police activities and ensure all the right resources are being used in the right places at the right times.

The changes, as you might have guessed, are being made to save money – the aim is to reduce the cost of police buildings by 30% from £205 million a year to £140 million by 2016, but at the same time they will try:

To achieve these cost and space reductions whilst enhancing the opportunities for members of the public to meet with the police through providing more access facilities in buildings across both the MPS and wider public estates as part of the overall accessibility strategy to the MPS

The  justification for the cuts seems to be partly  that the public interactions with the police via a police station front desk have reduced compared to other ways of contacting the police, and also that the police are more distributed through the safer neighbourhood teams.

There are a series of consultation events covering these and other changes to London policing. In Greenwich this will be at King William Court, University of Greenwich Tuesday, 29 January, 2013 from 8.00pm to 9.00pm. You will need to register if you want to attend.

Snippet from Guardian Data Blog Police stations in London under threat of closure
Snippet from Guardian Data Blog Police stations in London under threat of closure

Woolwich Police Station is a Grade II listed building which was designed by John Dixon Butler who was then the Police Architect and Surveyor. Butler also designed the Magistrates Court on the opposite side of market street and a number of other police buildings throughout London, including Greenwich Magistrates CourtHackney Police Station, Shoreditch Police Station and Magistrates Court and Clerkenwell Magistrates Court. The Survey of London on Woolwich describes the Woolwich Police Station as “a strong example of Dixon Butler’s work and a subtly elegant expression of authority.” Its listing describes it as having a “restrained Queen Anne facade” and:

To Market Street, a wide and largely symmetrical frontage is of sixteen windows bays, organised into a five parts, with a steep gable with stone copings marking the end and central sections, between which are second floor dropped slated mansard roofs over a dentillated cornice. The ground floor has a deep ashlar band, the pedestrian entrance to the right hand side has an advanced ashlar entrance with ‘police’ inscribed in the frieze below the prominent cornice, and to the right an ashlar canted bay. Pair of front doors of panelled hard wood, and the stone architrave carries the 1910 date. There is a carriage entrance to the left side, this and the ground floor tripartite windows are under inset segmental arches. The carriage entrance is lined with glazed bricks, white above a brown dado. The first floor windows have exaggerated slender stone keyblocks. Rear elevation has irregular window arrangement, these under gauged brick arches, and a single storey flat-roofed extension. To the rear is a projecting cell block wing with gauged red brick arches over the sash windows; seven small cell windows, placed high, one replaced with taller window, these with small pane iron frames, chamfered stone heads and stone cills. Boundary wall to yard survives in part, but the former stable buildings to rear have been substantially rebuilt.

The listing also points out the particularly strong group value of the police station with the other Victorian and Edwardian municipal buildings of this part of Woolwich. The draft Woolwich Master Plan says of this  “Bathway Quarter”:

This area has a rich character which should be preserved though sensitive residential-led refurbishment with active uses at ground floor to create a distinct urban quarter. This area has the potential to be a high quality, high-specification, loft-style place with bars, galleries and artists’ studios together with other uses such as a jazz club and creative industries such as architect’s studios.

Hopefully this means the building will be preserved even if it is no longer a police station.

Woolwich Police Station
Woolwich Police Station
The Blue Lamp at Woolwich Police Station
The Blue Lamp at Woolwich Police Station

Heraldic Stones

Royal Coat of Arms in a Shooters Hill garden
Royal Coat of Arms in a Shooters Hill garden

Ever since I was shown the stone coat-of-arms (above) hidden in a Shooters Hill garden  I’ve been curious about what it was, where it came from and how it got there.

It looks like a royal coat of arms. The garter inscribed “Honi soit qui mal y pense” surrounding the shield shows that this is the coat of arms of a Knight or Lady of the order of the garter,  and appears on royal coats of arms used in England. There is also, to my eye, a small fragment of a motto scroll under the shield with what could be the O  and part of the M and N of  Dieu et mon droit, which is the motto of English monarchs.

That it is a royal coat of arms has suggested to some people that the stonework originated at Shrewsbury House, which has a royal connection. Princess Charlotte of  Wales, the daughter of the future King George IV,  had lived there from the age of 3 in 1799 possibly until 1804, under the care of her governess Lady Elgin.

This suggestion doesn’t seem quite right to me,  for a couple of reasons. Firstly because pictures of the old Shrewsbury House don’t show the coat of arms, and the style of its architecture doesn’t seem consistent with the style of the stonework. More convincingly though, the details of the heraldic symbols on the shield suggest an earlier date and an association with the first Hanoverian monarchs George I and II rather than George III and IV.

Royal Arms of Great Britain (1714-1801) on Wikimedia Commons
Royal Arms of Great Britain (1714-1801) on Wikimedia Commons
The Coat of Arms in a Shooters Hill garden
The Coat of Arms

The  fourth quarter of the arms is very distinctive to the first Hanoverian monarchs, as wikipedia says:

The Elector of Hanover inherited the throne following the death of Queen Anne under the provisions of the Act of Settlement 1701, becoming King George I. The fourth quarter of the arms was changed to reflect the new King’s domains in Hanover (Brunswick–Lüneburg, surmounted by the Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire for the Holy Roman office of Archbannerbearer/Archtreasurer).

There is a hole in the stonework where  the Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire would have been; perhaps this indicates that a representation of the crown in a different material was fixed to the arms. The  fleurs-de-lis in the second quarter  are a reminder of the English monarchs’ claim the French throne, going back to King Edward III. The later Georges dropped this claim and removed the fleurs-de-lis from the arms.

This coat of arms was used from 1714–1800 when the union of the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland necessitated a major change. The old Shrewsbury House was built in 1789 when  these arms would have been current, but there isn’t a known royal connection there until the princess in  1799.

If not Shrewsbury House where else could the stonework have come from? Most of the mansions and grand houses of Shooters Hill seem to have been built in Victorian times, in the middle of the 19th century, and where there are photographs there is no sign of the Hanoverian royal coat of arms. I’ve checked pictures of Castlewood House, Falconwood House, Warren Wood, Jackwood and Shrewsbury House and none of them show stonework like that in the image above. Colonel Bagnold mentions a couple of older residences.  One was Broom Hall, built by John Lidgbird in 1733, which he describes as “a handsome Georgian house”,  demolished in 1937. He doesn’t mention a royal connection, and I haven’t found any pictures other than the colonel’s sketch of a set of shutters with John Lidgbird’s initials written in clout nails. Blomefield House, just to the west of Broom Hall, appears to have been in existence in 1720 and got its name from  General Sir T. Blomefield who lived there and was Superintendent of the Royal Gun Factory from 1780. Again no royal connection, and no images of the house. However both these older properties are worth following up as possible sources for the arms.

Our first Hanoverian, George I, is credited  with founding the Artillery in 1716  when he issued a Royal Warrant to set up two permanent field artillery companies of 100 men each based at Tower Place in the Royal Arsenal at Woolwich, so I wondered whether  the coat of arms could have come from one of the many historic military buildings in Woolwich that have since been demolished. On the 1866 Woolwich OS map there is a Royal Marines Barracks on Frances Street, known as the Red Barracks, then nearby the Cambridge Barracks and also a Royal Engineers Barracks, the Grand Depot Barracks,  between Woolwich New Road and Love Lane where the Tesco monolith now stands. However the dates of these buildings are 19th century, after the first two Georges, and unlikely to include their coat-of-arms.

So no final answers to my questions about the cost-of-arms, yet, but there’s some interesting lines to follow up on.

Unicorn supporter
Unicorn supporter

Mayfield 1874 – aka Jackwood House

On the terrace of the former Mayfield and Jackwood House
On the terrace of the former Mayfield and Jackwood House

I returned to the maps room at the British Library this week to have a second look at the volume of Victorian house sales literature where I discovered the 1873 description of Shrewsbury House. This time I opened the heavy volume at the pages describing the estate and house called Mayfield, though it was also at one time known as Jackwood House. I’ve included the full transcript of the estate description at the end of this post,  though again without  trying to reproduce all the different font styles and sizes of the original. The brochure includes three pictures: of the mansion house; its library and the lodge house. The house itself is in a style that would now probably be known as mock Tudor, with half timbered upper floors,  but was then known as the Old English style. It was demolished in 1927, but the lodge remains as do one of the garden terraces, the walled “Mysterious P” garden, and some of the ancillary buildings. The latter are now used as council offices, but still retain some of  the style of the mansion house though nowhere near as elaborate.

Former ancillary building to Mayfield
Former ancillary building to Mayfield

The drawing of the lodge in the sales brochure shows a pretty little, ivy-clad, thatched cottage, identical  to the building in the picture on the left below, which is a scan of a photograph in Greenwich Heritage Centre‘s Shooters Hill collection. On the right is the lodge as it is today; no longer thatched and with an extension on the right hand side.

Mayfield House Lodge ?
Mayfield House Lodge ?
Jackwood Lodge now
Jackwood Lodge now

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The plan of the estate includes the layout of the gardens and grounds. The terrace that survives today was to the west of the house, as you can see in the snippet from Alan Godfrey Maps‘ reprint of the 1894 Ordnance Survey map of Shooters Hill below. The semi-circular fountain in the photograph at the top of this post  is marked at the centre of the terrace, and the L shaped ancillary building and the lodge also appear on the map.

However the estate plan shows several features that aren’t on the OS map. The plan shows the 130,000 gallon reservoir in the arrow-head shaped area of land to the north of the lodge – in the fork between where Crown Woods Lane and Kenilworth Gardens are now. The gardens south of the mansion included what looks like a woodland walk and a circular “Rosary”. Presumably this was where Lord Penzance pursued his passion for rose growing. There’s no trace of  the woodland walk and rosary now – the area is completely covered with trees and undergrowth.

1894 OS Map showing Jackwood House
Snippet from 1894 OS Map showing Jackwood House

I wrote about Lord Penzance, who is mentioned as the seller of the house and estate, in a previous post about Jackwood House and its Mysterious P. Lord Penzance was James Wilde before he was raised to the peerage, and he married Lady Mary, daughter of William Pleydell-Bouverie, 3rd Earl of Radnor, in 1860. I mention this because it led me down a wrong path in trying to decipher the words engraved on the basin of the fountain on the terrace:

D.D. IACOBUS COMES DE RADNOR 1873.

It’s a long time since I took Latin “O” Level, and even then I needed two attempts to pass, so it took a while to work out what this meant. I found D.D. quite easily – it stands for De Dato meaning This Day. IACOBUS can be Jacob or James – must be James Wilde I thought. COMES was more difficult; the online Latin dictionary gave comes comitis : companion, friend, comrade / count, though the only usage I saw fitted the latter translation better. RADNOR, I assumed, referred to his wife’s family association with the Earldom of Radnor. So it could be commemorating James Wilde’s companionship with Mary of Radnor… then I noticed that successive Earls of Radnor are alternately called William and Jacob, and that Mary’s brother was called Jacob, so the inscription could be referring to Jacob, the 4th Earl of Radnor. Why? I didn’t know.

Bagnold had the answer. He gives the names of the various owners of the estate, mentioning:

The house was in first instance called “Jack’s Wood,” probably in contraction of “Jack’s Hill Wood”; that name was soon changed to “Mayfield” and later to “Jackwood”. It is said that the architectural details of the house were largely taken from the historic Haddon Hall in Derbyshire.

Lord Penzance did not long continue to occupy “Jackwood House” for his lease, granted in 1863, was assigned to Viscount Folkestone and the Hon. G.W. Fitzgerald in 1874 or earlier, and in 1875 to Mr John Harvey who, in 1877, put the place up to auction.

And in a typed footnote, disappearing off the frayed bottom of the page:

Apparently, Viscount Folkestone succeeded to the Earldom of Radnor during his tenure of Jackwood House for, on the basin of the fountain on the terrace is the inscription – “D.D. IACOBUS COMES DE RADNOR 1873”

This fits in with the wkipedia entry on Jacob Pleydell-Bouverie which says that he was called Viscount Folkestone from 1828 until 1869.

The one thing that’s still not clear to me is whether there was another house on the site before Lord Penzance took out his lease in 1862. Partly this is because Margherita Arlina Hamm’s  “Eminent Actors in Their Homes” claims that “the homestead dates from the fourteenth century”, and also the different shapes of the mansion house in the 1866 and 1894 OS maps. It could be that Margherita was fooled by the Old English style of the house, and that the 1866 map was based on an old or incomplete design of the mansion which may still have been being built when the map was compiled. But that question will have to wait for another day.

 

The terrace at Jackwood
The terrace at Jackwood

Transcript of the 1874 sales description:

MAYFIELD

THE PROPERTY OF

THE RIGHT HONBLE LORD PENZANCE

SHOOTERS HILL, KENT

DEBENHAM, TEWSON & FARMER

AUCTIONEERS AND LAND AGENTS

80, CHEAPSIDE EC

SECOND EDITION

SHOOTERS HILL, KENT

About two miles from Eltham Station on the North Kent Loop Line, and a pleasant drive of about

eight miles from London on the main Dover Road; and within short driving distance of “The

Crays,” Erith on the River Thames, and other of the most interesting parts of the county.

The Particulars, Plans, Views and Conditions of Sale

Of the exceedingly attractive

RESIDENTIAL ESTATE

KNOWN AS

“MAYFIELD”

COMPRISING A PARTICULARLY WELL BUILT AND

Exquisitely Finished Family Mansion,

Forming a perfect specimen of the

Old English Style of Architecture

TOGETHER WITH

Stabling, Entrance Lodge, Picturesque Grounds, and Ornamental

Woodlands, in all

21A. 2R. 25P.   OR 44A. 0R. 25P.

For Sale with Possession by Messrs.

DEBENHAM, TEWSON & FARMER

At the Mart, Tokenhouse Yard, near the Bank of England, in the City of London,

ON TUESDAY, JUNE 30, 1874,

At Two o’clock punctually (unless an acceptable offer be previously made).

By order of the Right Honourable Lord Penzance (who has no further need of a residence near London)

______________________

Particulars, with Plans and Views, may be had of Messrs. WILDE, BERGER, MOORE, & WILDE,

Solicitors, 21 College Hill, E.C.; and of Messrs. DEBENHAM, TEWSON & FARMER, Auctioneers and Land

Agents,

80 CHEAPSIDE, E.C.

___________________________________________________

N.B. Messrs. DEBENHAM, TEWSON & FARMER’S, Sales for the above date will include several

other properties; intending Purchasers and others who are interested therein are invited to refer to

The Times of Monday, June 29th, in which the “Order of Sale” will be published

Particulars

_____________

THE TRULY

Charming Residential Estate

DISTINGUISHED AS

“MAYFIELD”

Most pleasantly situate

ON THE SUMMIT OF SHOOTERS HILL,

Commanding a fine panoramic view of the lovely scenery for which this part of the country is so

celebrated, overlooking the Eltham Valley, the Elmstead Woods and Heights near Chiselhurst, and

extending to the Kent and Surrey ranges of hills.

IT COMPRISES

A particularly well built and exquisitely finished

FAMILY MANSION

Standing upon a soil of gravel and sand, built in the Old English style for the occupation of the

present owner, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD PENZANCE

Every detail has been elaborately wrought out, and no expense spared to render the residence one

of the most perfect of its kind, replete with every comfort and convenience. It has South and West

aspects, and occupies a singularly picturesque spot in a Wood of Oak Trees and Fern; which places

it in a position of perfect rural seclusion. The Carriage Drive winds through the thickly timbered

grounds, which are protected by a pretty Thatched Rustic Lodge.

_____________________

THE MANSION

Contains the following accommodation:-

On the UPPER FLOOR — Five Servants’ Bedrooms, four having fire places, and a Housemaid’s

                        Closet; two large principal Bedchambers, one measuring 28ft. by 21ft., the walls of

                        one heavily panelled, and moulded and decorated yellow and white, and the other

                        similarly panelled, and decorated blue and white, the ceilings of both Rooms being

                        most beautifully moulded and ornamented. These rooms have deeply recessed

                        windows, fitted with lockers, forming window seats, and commanding delightful views

                        over a wide expanse of country; a Dressing Room, two Store Closets, and a hanging

                        Wardrobe. There  is a Box Room in the roof, fitted with large hot and cold water

                        cisterns; a spacious Landing, tastefully finished,  panelled and heavily moulded in

                        pitch pine with a dado, a handsome balustrade and handrail, with massive newels and

                        carved finials; a coil of hot water pipes. a w.c., &c.

On the FIRST FLOOR:–    A large Landing from main Staircase (forming a gallery), with handsome

                        balustrade and handrail, massive newels and carved finials, all exquisitely finished

                        in pitch pine. There is a book recess on this Landing. Two principal Bedchambers,

                        measuring respectively 22ft. by 18ft. and 20ft. by 28ft., both having paneled and

                        heavily moulded walls, and ornamental ceilings, finished in pitch pine. There are

                        Dressing Rooms to each of these Bedchambers, large enough for Bedrooms, if

                        required; the whole are fitted with register stoves, with beautiful carved and moulded

                        pitch pine chimney pieces.

THE HANDSOME DRAWING ROOM OR LIBRARY

                        is of truly noble dimensions; the walls entirely paneled, heavily moulded, and fitted

                        in Brown Oak, with large and massive bookcases, and lockers forming window seats

                        to the two deep bay windows; a very elaborately worked caved Brown Oak chimney

                        piece, with stone hearth and inner mantel, and a richly paneled and elaborately

                        ornamented ceiling.  It opens onto the Terraces through a pair of folding

                        doors. There is a private staircase winding to the Study below. It is fitted with

                        hot water pipes for warmth in winter. Gas is laid on in all the passages, which are

                        also furnished with a set of hydrants in connexion with a large reservoir, constructed

                        on high ground for the water supply of the premises, and as a security against fire.

                        There is also on this Floor a Housemaid’s Closet, with water laid on, and a w.c.

On the GROUND FLOOR – A glazed Outer Porch, leading to a lofty Hall, measuring about 26ft.

                        by 20ft., finished in pitched pine, and having a carved Oak mantel. The Grand

                        Staircase is entirely of pitch pine, with massive newels, moulded finials, and finely

                        turned balusters. the Hall and Landings are also fitted with hot water pipes.

A charming Morning Room

                        About 20ft. by 18ft beautifully finished in pitch pine paneling, a noble chimney

                        piece, two bay windows, and china closets; the ceiling ornamented in plaster.

A COMFORTABLY ARRANGED STUDY

                        About 20ft. by 16ft., the ceiling exquisitely moulded and embossed in colors; the

                        walls richly paneled and painted; a convenient range of cupboards, and a deed

                        closet; a massive mantel in pitch pine, and a kerbed stone hearth to fire place. The

                        private winding staircase previously mentioned ascends from this Room to the

                        Library above.

A capital Dining Room

                        About 20ft. by 18ft beautifully paneled in pitch pine, the ceiling richly embossed

                        and moulded, and the mantel of pitch pine. There are two deep bayed windows,

                        and china closet.

THE DOMESTIC OFFICES

                        Include – a linen room with store cupboards; a Store Room; a Butler’s Pantry

                        fitted with cupboards, hot and cold water laid on, and Store Room adjoining; a

                        China Closet; a Housekeeper’s Room; Lamp Room; a large, light and lofty Kitchen,

                        fitted with range, hot plate, dressers, &c.; a Scullery, with range, copper, and

                        dressers; Cook’s Pastry Room, Servants Hall, Dairy, Larder, Beer and Wine Cel-

                        lars, Knife House, Coal House, w.c., &c.

                        There is plentiful service of Water from a private reservoir (capable of holding 130,000 gallons),

                        which stands in the grounds at sufficient elevation to ensure a supply of water to any part of the

                        premises; and pipes laid for the purpose of irrigating the Gardens, for the supply of additional

                        Fountains and the Cascade. There is also a Dipping Well of excellent water.

                        The Drainage has been carefully attended to; and gas is laid on to the house and to

THE STABLING

                        Which is detached, and comprises accommodation for five Horses, Harness Room, and two Rooms

                        for Coachmen over; large Coach House, with two pairs of folding doors.

                        There is also a Wash House, with gas and water laid on, and three rooms over, suitable for bedrooms

                        for batchelors, or for extra men servants; the largest of these three Rooms was originally intended as

                        a Chemists Laboratory, and has gas and water laid on.

                        The Turret over has an expensive Dial Clock, which chimes the quarters and strikes the hours.

                        There is an excellent range of timber built and tiled Sheds for the storage of wood, &c., a Carpenters’

                        Shop, and a Cart Shed.

THE EXCEEDINGLY

PICTURESQUE AND ROMANTIC GROUNDS

Have been laid out with great artistic taste, and disposed in Lawn terraces, commanding

Panoramic Views of almost unrivalled beauty.

THE WIDE SPREADING LAWNS

Are ornamented with

Trees and Shrubs of most luxuriant growth.

THE WILD WOOD WALKS

Are enlivened by a great

PROFUSION OF FLOWERS, FERNS, AND GORSE

And afford here and there glimpses of the most charming scenery.

                        The whole (colored Green on Plan) occupies a most enviable site and comprises a total area of

21A.        2R.          25P.

(More or less).

                        And is held from Her Majesty’s Commissioners of Woods and Forests for a term of 99 years from

                        5th April 1862 at an annual Ground Rent of £150, and of £4 per cent. per annum upon such amount

                        as should be expended by Her Majesty’s said Commissioners in the redemption of tithe rent charges.

                        The portion (colored Pink on Plan) comprising 22a. 2r. 0p., is held for a term of 21 years from 24th

                        June, 1864, from the trustees of the late John Blades, esq., at a rent of £50 per annum, and the

                        Vendor’s interest in the lease will, if desired, be assigned to the Purchaser. (See Conditions.)

                        Lord Penzance has occupied 26 Acres of Grass Land which immediately adjoin the Woods.  They

                        were hired of the neighbouring farmer, and no doubt could be so again, if desired.

                        The Estate is so readily accessible from the City and West End, and yet so truly in the Country, as

                        to render it a desirable purchase for a Nobleman or Gentleman requiring a House near London.

Possession on completion of the purchase.

                        All the valuable Fixtures will be included in the Sale; the Blinds, Cornices, gas Fittings, and a

                        few other items, of which an Inventory can be seen at the Auctioneers’ Offices, and will be produced

                        at the time of sale, are to be taken at a Valuation in the usual way.

                        The Purchaser may have the option, to be declared in writing, addressed to the Auctioneers, within 10

                        days of the Sale, of purchasing, as a Valuation, all the very appropriate Furniture and Effects (except

                        some few items, which the vendor will remove, and of which a list will be furnished. Such valuation

                        to be made in the usual manner, by two referees, to be nominated by the respective parties or by

                        their umpire). Should the Purchaser not exercise such option, the Vendor reserves the right to hold

                        a Sale by Auction on the Premises before the completion of the purchase.

London's Oldest Operational Fire Station

Woolwich Fire Station - London's oldest operational fire station
Woolwich Fire Station – London’s oldest operational fire station

I wasn’t aware of Woolwich fire station until recently when the story about the proposed closure of London fire stations was reported, and at about the same time it was mentioned by Peter Guillery in his talk about the Survey of London’s new volume about Woolwich. Peter said that  it was London’s oldest operational fire station, and that it was an architectural gem. He was right, it’s a beautiful building,  as can be seen in the photograph above, hidden away in Sunbury Street. It was designed by Metropolitan Board of Works’ architect Robert Pearsall who was responsible for many London fire stations, including Tooley Street, Bishopsgate, Stoke Newington and the West Norwood fire station which now houses the South London Theatre.

The draft of the Survey of London’s volume on Woolwich gives some background to the building:

Hidden away, this is London’s oldest fire station still in operational use (an older part of Southwark Station is a museum). Its architect was Robert Pearsall, working under Alfred Mott in the Fire Brigade Branch of the MBW’s Architect’s Department. The builders were Lonergan Brothers of Plumstead.  Few of Pearsall’s stations survive, but here his characteristic free-Gothic style still provides a striking profile, pinnacled buttresses leading the eye to tall chimneystacks and the prominent five-storey round watchtower, itself a rare survival. The polychromatic-brick façade incorporates ornamental terracotta spandrels and Portland stone dressings. Internally the engine room is open under composite iron girders, supplied by Archibald Dawnay. The staircase in the tower winds neatly round a matchboard-lined hose-drying cupboard. The upper storeys housed a mess room, bedrooms and apartments – twelve men were stationed here.

The British Listed Buildings web page gives a detailed description of the architecture with its “terracotta diapering in the spandrels” and “five-storey, round tower on an octagonal base”. The fire station was once the base for horse-drawn fire engines, as shown in this photograph on Flickr.

Robert Pearsall wasn’t just an accomplished architect. He was appointed a  life member of the British Museum in recognition of his work as an architect and artist, and served on “The Committee for the Survey of the Memorials of Greater London”. He was also a keen genealogist, contributing to a history and genealogy of the Pearsall family.

The current regime of austerity and budget cuts means that  our fire services are under threat in south-east London as well as our local health service, and Woolwich fire station is one of  up to 31 stations facing closure with the possible loss of 28 jobs. A London Fire and Emergency Planning Authority (LFEPA) report models the impact of various options for saving up to £75 million from the London Fire Brigade budget. All the options include the closure of Woolwich fire station.

Since 2003 the number of fires in London has been decreasing each year, as can be seen in the graph below which combines data taken from two London Fire Brigade reports: long term fire trends for Greater London which provides data from 1966 to 2008 and a Quarterly Monitoring of Performance Indicators report which brings the data up to the end of 2011. Ironically part of the reason for this decrease in fires is the safety and campaigning work carried out by the London Fire Brigade.
Closure of Woolwich fire station is particularly annoying for Shooters Hill residents as one of the justifications for closing the Eaglesfield Road fire station was that there was another station just down the hill in Woolwich. If Woolwich is closed our nearest fire stations will be  Eltham and Plumstead. Intuitively it would seem safer to have more stations, maybe with fewer appliances, so that the stations were closer to people’s homes. The Fire Brigade have a target of getting a first fire engine to a fire within 6 minutes; the LFEPA report indicates that for the Royal Borough of Greenwich, where the Fire Brigade currently get a first appliance to a fire in an average of 5 minutes 28 seconds, the response time would increase by between 14 seconds and 1 minute  and 24 seconds in the six closure scenarios modelled, missing the 6 minute target in three of the six scenarios. Some boroughs fare even worse than Greenwich.

Another worry, though not a safety issue, is that Woolwich Fire Station has been identified as a “high value site” in the LFEPA report. I hope that doesn’t indicate that they are planning to do anything other than preserve this historic building.

Woolwich Fire Station – five-storey, round tower on an octagonal base
Woolwich Fire Station – five-storey, round tower on an octagonal base
Woolwich Fire Station – note the terracotta diapering on the spandrels
Woolwich Fire Station – note the terracotta diapering on the spandrels

Survey of London 48: Woolwich – Talks and Exhibition

Greenwich Heritage Centre exhibition and event flyer

The launch of the Woolwich volume of English Heritage’s Survey of London will be marked by an exhibition at the Greenwich Heritage Centre and talks by Peter Guillery, Senior Historian at the Survey of London.

The free exhibition starts tomorrow and runs until 9th February, and there is a talk at the Heritage Centre tomorrow at 2pm – you need to book by phone (020 8854 2452) or e-mail (heritage.centre@greenwich.gov.uk) – and also a Greenwich Industrial History Society talk at 7.30pm on 20th November at the Age Exchange Bakehouse.

The book isn’t out yet, according to amazon it will be released on 26th November, but the draft version on the English Heritage website shows that it will be an essential source of detailed information for anyone interested in the history and development of the area. I’ve found lots of fascinating background information there already. The draft version doesn’t include any graphics, but we’re promised that the final version  “will be a fully illustrated book, with around 100 new drawings, a similar number of new photographs, and altogether more than 400 illustrations.” My only (slight) disappointment is that  it doesn’t quite cover Shooters Hill, just the parish of Woolwich (and that it’s an expensive book – maybe Woolwich Library will get a few copies).

I’m looking forward to hearing how the historians researched the huge amount of detailed information in the Survey.

Front cover of Survey of London volume 48 Woolwich on amazon.co.uk
Front cover of Survey of London volume 48 Woolwich on amazon.co.uk

Shrewsbury House Estate For Sale – in 1873

Print of the old Shrewsbury House
J.T. Rawlins’ sketch of the old Shrewsbury House

The heavy tome I carefully carried from the counter in the British Library’s Maps department to one of the reading desks was about A3 size, some 4 inches thick and solidly bound. It contained a set of Victorian sales literature for great houses in the south of England, including Shrewsbury House and Mayfield. The Shrewsbury House set was typical:  it included a pastel-coloured lithograph of the house,  a hand-drawn fold-out map of the estate and half a dozen pages describing the mansion and its grounds. The descriptive statements were centred on each page and contrived to use as many different fonts and sizes as possible.

I’ve included a full transcript of the Shrewsbury House details at the bottom of this post, though I haven’t attempted to reproduce all the different fonts. In true estate agent style it brings out all the advantages of the area –  “The Neighbourhood of Shooter’s Hill is exceedingly picturesque and much admired, and a favourite one for residence” – and the location of the house which:

“Is almost on the summit of the hill, about 350 Feet above the Sea Level and commands a beautiful landscape, exhibiting a great variety of extensive distances, a cheerful luxuriance of sylvan scenery, including on the south the Knockholt range in Kent, on the north and east the hilly parts of Essex and Hertfordshire and the Alexandra Palace and Park; on the South, parts of Sydenham and the Crystal Palace and Windsor Castle; and as a home view, the extensive windings of the noble river Thames with its shipping. From the mansion it is said Seven Counties are visible in clear weather.”

This original  Shrewsbury House, built in 1789 by the 16th Earl of Shrewsbury was a substantial property with 15 bedrooms, including those for servants, and extensive grounds including pleasure gardens,  stables and buildings for livestock, and a 20ft long vinery.

The picture at the top of the post isn’t taken from the sales particulars, the British Library would have charged £60 for a digital reproduction. It is a scan of a sketch originally published in  Greenwood’s 1838 “An Epitome of County History“. The house would have been the same in 1873 though – a photograph in the Shrewsbury Park Estate conservation area appraisal shows that the appearance of the house was unchanged through to 1901. The Epitome of County History also extols the views from Shrewsbury House:

Shrewsbury House, in the Parish of Plumsted, the seat of John Cooper,
Esq. is situated on the north-east edge of Shooter's Hill, and commands pros-
pects unequalled in any other part of the county. The metropolis, the shipping,
the winding course of the Thames to the verge of the horizon, the County of
Essex, and the most interesting parts of Kent, including the populous towns of
Greenwich and Woolwich, are all presented to the eye in a vast panorama from
the leads of this lofty mansion. This was the residence, for a considerable time,
of her late Royal Highness the Princess Charlotte, during her education : and
certainly no situation could have been selected more salubrious, or better adapted
to compose the attention to literary pursuits. In the study there is an immense
globe geographically delineated on the floor, formed, it is said, to familiarise the
science to the mind of the illustrious pupil. The interior of this house is
decorated with many works of art, among which are paintings by Waltean,
Permigiano, De Here, Weenix, Glover, Chamberlain, and others ; some fine
sculpture, &c.

The 1873 sales document doesn’t mention the expected price anywhere, it would be too vulgar to mention money I guess, and I wondered how much the estate sold for. However it’s not clear that the house sold at all in 1873 – dependable Colonel Bagnold lists the owners of Shrewsbury House from 1789 through to its demolition in 1923, and he says that the Rev. John Smallman Masters owned it between 1856 and 1888, though he mortgaged it more than once during 1862-76.

The occupants of the old Shrewsbury House were a varied bunch: from royalty (Princess Charlotte) and the head of the Royal Dockyard,  through to the early experimenter in gas lighting, Mr Winser. It also had spells as a boarding school with a dozen boy pupils and as the Crole-Wyndham Home for Convalescent Children  – housing 32 poor children from the slums of London. In 1923 the old Shrewsbury House was pulled down by  former mayor and later Deputy Lieutenant of the County of Kent F.T. Halse, who then built the current Shrewsbury House, now in active use as the community centre.

One mystery remains about the old house – what happened to the foundation stone?  This stone, according to Colonel Bagnold,  is  inscribed “CHARLES, XVIth Earl &c., &c., of Shrewsbury laid this stone , July 29th, 1789.”, and was installed in a rockery in Well Hall Pleasaunce. It doesn’t seem to be there now as far as I can see – I wonder if it was moved somewhere, or is buried under the shrubbery? The Colonel thought the stone should be mounted on a plinth on the roundabout in Mereworth Drive, which is close to the site of the old Shrewsbury House – what a good way that would have been to commemorate our local history!

Shrewsbury House
Shrewsbury House

Transcript of the 1873 sales description:

KENT,

ON THE SUMMIT OF SHOOTERS HILL

About 8 1/2 miles by road from London Bridge

__________________________________________________

PARTICULARS, WITH CONDITIONS OF SALE

OF

The Shrewsbury House Estate

A VERY CHOICE AND VALUABLE

FREEHOLD RESIDENTIAL

AND

BUILDING PROPERTY

ON THE CREST OF SHOOTERS HILL

About 350 ft. above the sea level and commanding

Very distant and exceedingly beautiful views of Kent, the River Thames with its shipping, the hilly parts of Essex etc.

AND CONSISTING OF

A LARGE FAMILY MANSION

Placed in the midst of its PLEASURE GROUNDS, in the centre of

Undulating and well-timbered park and woodlands,

COMPRISING

About 54 Acres,

VERY COMPACTLY SITUATE NEAR THE MAIN ROAD FROM LONDON TO DARTFORD,

WITH POSSESSION ON COMPLETION OF THE PURCHASE:

WHICH WILL BE OFFERED FOR SALE BY AUCTION,

BY

Messrs. DANIEL SMITH, SON , & OAKLEY,

AT THE AUCTION HOUSE, TOKENHOUSE YARD, CITY, E.C.,

On TUESDAY, the 29th day of JULY, 1873

AT ONE FOR TWO O’CLOCK PRECISELY, – IN ONE LOT

__________________________

Particulars may be obtained of Messrs. A.F. & R.W. TWEEDIE, Solicitors, 5, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, W.C.; at the

Place of Sale; and of Messrs. DANIEL SMITH, SON , & OAKLEY, Land Agents and Surveyors, 10, Waterloo Place, Pall Mall, S.W.

PARTICULARS

______________________

THE

SHREWSBURY HOUSE ESTATE

IS SITUATE AT

SHOOTERS’S HILL

IN THE

PARISH OF PLUMSTEAD, KENT,

Near the Main Road from

LONDON TO DARTFORD,

Having a Frontage of nearly

1,500 FEET TO SHREWSBURY LANE,

About 8 1/2 Miles by Road from LONDON BRIDGE; about 20 Minutes’ drive from BLACKHEATH STATION, 30 Minutes from

GREENWICH, and 15 Minutes from WOOLWICH ARSENAL STATION, all on the North Kent Line of the South-Eastern

Railway, with quick and frequent Train Service to and from Charing Cross, Cannon Street and London Bridge Stations

during the day about half-an-hour’s ride from the Metropolis

______________________

The Neighbourhood of Shooter’s Hill is exceedingly Picturesque and much admired,

AND A FAVOURITE ONE FOR RESIDENCE

______________________

THE ESTATE

Is almost on the Summit of the Hill, about 350 Feet above the Sea Level and commands a

BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE,

Exhibiting a great variety of extensive distances, a cheerful luxuriance of Sylvan Scenery, including on the South the

Knockholt Range in Kent, on the North and East the hilly parts of Essex and Hertfordshire and the Alexandra Palace

and Park; on the South, parts of Sydenham and the Crystal Palace and Windsor Castle;

AND AS A HOME VIEW, THE

Extensive Windings of the Noble River Thames with its Shipping

From the MANSION it is said Seven Counties are visible in clear weather

______________________

The most important element in the value of this

CHOICE FREEHOLD PROPERTY

Is the facilities it presents as a

BUILDING SPECULATION

Which will suggest itself to an enterprising Capitalist, a Building Society, or Private Company, as offering a favourable

opportunity for Safe Investment

______________________

The Subsoil being Gravel and Brick Earth, the Materials are already on the spot for the formation of New Roads, and

the Manufacture of Bricks.

And as the Property is on a Hill it is admirably situate  for Drainage

The Roads leading to this Estate having been recently widened, greater facilities of communication have been opened up

which cannot fail to be of considerable benefit to the Property, whether it be developed as a Building Estate or kept as a

Residential Property

Some of the Adjacent Land is now being covered with Residences of a superior class, and Building operations are carried on

adjoining the Estate.

The Land might be so laid out as to preserve the House and Grounds in the centre, and, if not required for a Private

Residence, it would be available for a Public Institution, for which purpose the high and healthy situation renders it

eligible.

______________________

The Property comprises

A SPACIOUS

FAMILY MANSION,

Built by an Earl of Shrewsbury, and once occupied by Her Royal Highness Princess Charlotte, placed on the crest of the

Hill, approached through Ornamental

Shrubbery and Pleasure Grounds,

BY A

CARRIAGE DRIVE WITH LODGE ENTRANCE.

______________________

The House is surrounded by

UNDULATING PARK LANDS,

WITH A

BEAUTIFUL WOOD OF 4 1/4 ACRES,

The whole being Richly Timbered with Oak, Elm, and other Timber Trees.

The Mansion possesses the advantages and the quietude of a Country Residence, notwithstanding its nearness to London, in

addition to being in a healthy situation, and in good position with regard to Society, and is in every respect adapted for

the Residence of a Gentleman of position.

______________________

The Extent of the Property is 54a. Or. 21p.,

All being in Pasture except the Wood of 4 1/4 acres, the Pleasure Grounds and Sites of Buildings

THE MANSION

Is principally three Stories in height (part being of two Stories), and Basement, substantially built of Brick, Stuccoed, with

strong Lead Flat Roofs, from which (and other parts of the Property), the Views before mentioned can be obtained.

IT CONTAINS THE FOLLOWING INTERNAL ACCOMMODATION:-

LOFTY ENTRANCE HALL

AND CORRIDOR.

The former being 39 ft. 6 in., by 10 ft., and the latter 21 ft. 8 in. by 7 ft. 8 in., approached by a flight of stone steps.

______________________

THE DINING ROOM

23 ft. 6 in.. with Bow Window overlooking the Lawn, fitted with a Black Marble Chimney-piece, and an

Ornamental Cornice.

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An Alcove or Garden Entrance,

Paved with Stone, of semi-circular shape, 15 ft. by 9 ft. 6 in.

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THE LIBRARY

20 ft. by 18 ft. 6 in., with Bow Window overlooking the Gardens ; (with a Black Marble Chimney-piece)

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THE BREAKFAST ROOM

19 ft. 6 in. by 16 ft. 0 in., of irregular shape, with a St. Anne’s Marble Chimney-piece

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A GENTLEMAN’S ROOM

15 ft. 4 in. by 12 ft., with Statuary Marble chimney-piece; A DRESSING ROOM adjoining 12 ft. by 7 ft. 6 in.

THESE APARTMENTS ARE ON THE RIGHT AND LEFT OF THE CORRIDOR AND ALL COMMUNICATE

They are 11 ft. in height.

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A WINDING STAIRCASE

CONDUCTS TO THE CORRIDOR ON THE FIRST STORY

31 ft. 2 in. by 7 ft. 8 in. and 23 ft. by 9 ft. 8 in. and 11 ft. 6 in. in height from which is approached

THE VERY HANDSOME

DRAWING ROOM

OF NOBLE PROPORTIONS,

42 ft. 3 in. by 29 ft. 9 in., including 3 large Bow Windows, a deep enriched Cornice, the paper in panels of an Elegant

Pattern. There are 2 Fire Places. An Iron Balcony extends round the garden Front.

THIS ROOM COMMANDS THE PARK GROUNDS AND LAWNS,

And is 15 ft. 9 in. high.

ON THIS STORY ARE ALSO

TWO PRINCIPAL BED CHAMBERS OR ANTE-ROOMS

AND A DRESSING ROOM

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ON THE UPPER STORY

Are 3 PRINCIPAL BED ROOMS, occasionally used as Nurseries, fitted with convenient Closets &c. A Housemaid’s

Closet and Water Closet.

TWO FLIGHTS OF STAIRS LEAD TO THE LEAD FLAT ROOFS.

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ON THE FIRST STORY IN THE WING

Are also 2 PRINCIPAL and 5 SERVANTS’ BED CHAMBERS; a Store Room, fitted; a Water Closet; and a

Secondary Staircase to the Ground Floor.

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THE DOMESTIC OFFICES,

ON THE GROUND FLOOR,

Are shut off from the Entrance Hall and comprise a Butler’s Pantry and Scullery, a Water Closet, Servants’ Hall, a good

Kitchen, Scullery and Coal Cellar.

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IN THE BASEMENT

Are also the following Offices :- Extensive Arched Cellarage, also a Wine Cellar and several Rooms formerly used

as Kitchen, Scullery, Butlers’ Pantry, 3 Bed Rooms, Mangle Room, Larder, Knife Room, Bakehouse, Dairy &Cc

THE HOUSE AND PREMISES

Are supplied with an abundance of Spring Water from the  Well by a Force Pump

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THE STABLING DEPARTMENT

CONSISTS OF

Two Stalls, with Loft over, Brick, Board and Slate; a Pony Stable; and a Gig House, Board and Tile ;

ALSO

A 2-Stall Stable and a Carriage House, a Hen House,  Board and Felt, and yard, 3 Pigstyes, and a Potting Shed,  Board

and Tile, a Lean-to Cow House for 4 Cows, Board and Tile.

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THE PLEASURE GROUNDS

Are embellished with a profusion of well-grown Shrubs and Ornamental Timber Trees, including handsome Cedars of

Lebanon, Pink, Red and White Thorns, Arbutus, Azanthus, and specimens of Oak, Beech, Sycamore, and Wych Elm,

and there are Banks of Rhododendron, the Flower Borders being arranged in Parterres.

A SMALL SEMI-CIRCULAR ROSE GARDEN

Contains a Greenhouse in 3 Compartments, 60 ft. long, and at the back a Gardener’s Bothie, and a large Potting Shed,

Brick and Tile, and a Closet.

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There are

TWO PRODUCTIVE KITCHEN GARDENS.

ONE CONTAINING A VINERY

About 20 ft. long.

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IN THE PADDOCKS

Are a Barn, with Cow Shed and a Hen House, with 3 Men’s Rooms over, Brick, Timber and Tile, and a Lean-to Shed.

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THE ENTRANCE LODGE

is of one Floor, built of Brick, Stucco and Slate, containing 2 Rooms and a Washhouse.

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The whole is further described in the following SCHEDULE :-

No on                                                                                                                           Quantity

Plan     Description                                                       State                            A.         R.         P

1          Mansion and Pleasure Grounds                                                             5          1          11

2          Park Ground                                                     Pasture                        30        1          10

3          Wood                                                               Wood                           4          0          27

4          Pasture                                                            Pasture                        2          1          14

5          Do.                                                                   do.                               11        3          37

6          Pond                                                                Pond, &c                      0          1          2

Total of the Estate              A   54        0          21